Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Moving back to Sri Lanka? Expect Challenges!

The decision to move back to Sri Lanka after over a decade is a daunting one. While we started thinking about moving back in 2010, when we actually started working through the details of moving back it turned out to be extremely stressful. The research and planning for a potential return started in 2011, with an expected return towards the latter part of 2012. There were so many things to consider and decisions to be made which made us defer the move by a year to late 2013.

The research started by talking to a lot of people both in Sri Lanka and in England. These people included family, relatives, friends, former colleagues in Sri Lanka, teachers, people who had gone back to Sri Lanka, people who had settled in UK and other countries but had briefly contemplated moving back but for some reason decided not to etc. While we did get a lot of advise and from everyone we spoke to, both for and against the move, on hindsight we probably took it a little too far by seeking opinions from too many people. We had always wanted to come back to Sri Lanka so every time someone spoke to us about the positives of moving back we were thrilled as it was more like approving our decision. Comments like 'great decision', 'nothing like home', 'parents and family will be thrilled', 'situation in Sri Lanka is improving' all gave us a lot of encouragement. But at the same time it was extremely discouraging and heartbreaking to hear the opposite; there were times we thought we should just forget about it and make up our minds to settle down in England. There were people who literally said 'you're mad/crazy/nuts/stupid' to go back to that country!' 'Country is going to the dogs', 'things are going backwards', 'corruption',  'cost of living', 'it's so hot there and mosquitos all over', 'why do you want to come back to this country when you have a good life there?', 'you won't survive more than 1 year there',  'traffic is terrible', 'people are looking to leave the country' etc etc. We were sure that most of these comments were true indeed but it was our mistake to actually go behind for advise knowing what the response will be in most cases. It was actually disappointing to hear some of the comments from people who had lived in Sri Lanka for 20-30 years before moving out now say things that implied that Sri Lanka was a God-forbidden country! Anyway, listening to comments and getting opinions from all around really held us back several times - may be we were not bold enough to make the decision without consulting people who we thought would advise us wisely. So my advise is to limit the number of opinions you seek - gather lots of information and make your decision independently!

Cost of living is a major concern. If you have been out for over a decade you will notice a huge difference from how much the cost of products and services have gone up. Depending on the life style and standard of living you want to maintain, an average middle class family of four will need between Rs.100,000 and Rs. 200,000 to get through the month - excluding any loans that need to be paid! Salaries have gone up though, mainly at senior levels in the private sector. But at junior levels it will be a struggle, especially if you are to support a family and build some savings for the future. Having said that, there is still a huge majority of people who get through the month with an income of less than Rs. 10,000. They have found ways to adapt to the challenges by sticking to the basics and living very simple life styles. So if you really want to come back and don't see potential to earn a decent salary, then expect to sacrifice on some comforts. It would be to your benefit if you can create additional streams of income for the family.

Education for children is another major concern. The government schools in Sri Lanka still teach in the same way they did 30 years ago. Their aim is get children to to get through exams and not to help them understand concepts so that they would be able to apply them to real life situations. There is a huge level of competition, even at grade 1 or 2, where small children spend most of their evenings in tuition classes instead of playing and doing everything else that children are supposed to do. Even some parents are very competitive and push their children so that they could show off to others that their children did well in their term tests. This aspect unfortunately seems to be getting worse, especially in government sector schools. There is more hope with private schools - some have altered their curriculum to better suit children of today and employ modern ways of teaching to help students understand concepts; still a long way off from what is offered in western countries. However there is huge competition to admit children into these schools and often require personal connections to school administrators and hefty donations as much as Rs. 500,000 to ensure a place at school. The next level of schooling is to consider international schools - and there are plenty of them now - where a foreign curriculum and modern teaching methods are followed to provide a high standards of education that is, in some cases, comparable to what is offered in western countries. However this comes at a price - monthly fees can vary from as high as Rs.25,000 to Rs.175,000! So this is something you will need to consider, especially if your children are in good schools abroad now and you don't want to deprive them of a quality education. A point to note though is that if the reason you are coming back to Sri Lanka has a lot to do with culture and ensuring the children get a good grounding in the Sri Lankan value system, then you will need to consider either a reputed government school or private school. It is unlikely that they will get the same grounding in an international school. However you will need to weigh the pros and cons of each.

If you are living a comfortable and relatively relaxed life abroad now, you will need to realize that it will change drastically if you move back. If you are Sri Lankan, you are likely to have many relatives and friends around. There will be many, overlapping social commitments that you will be obliged to attend. Relaxed sundays and evening walks in the park will become a distant memory unless you can diplomatically dodge some of these to create time for yourself. Traffic, especially in Colombo, is horrendous. Expect to spend at least 2-3 hours on the road just for the daily commute depending on where you live and work. The heat can be unbearable during certain months. If you are to use an air conditioner in your house then you are going to go beyond the expense levels I stated above due to high electricity bills. Mosquitos are galore! You will get used to them after awhile but the worrying factor is around the diseases they spread - mainly dengue which can be fatal if not properly diagnosed and neglected. So this should be a concern for families, especially with young children.

General inefficiency, political instability, high-levels of corruption and favouritism are all aspects that impact anyone living in Sri Lanka. You will need to face a lot of such situations when carrying out your day to day activities. Customer service is very poor compared to levels of service in some developed countries. There are not a lot of services available online yet (although this is improving quite a bit now). So overall getting things done will not be easy so expect to be frustrated often!

What I have shared above is a result of the research that I did before moving back to Sri Lanka combined with some experiences from having lived here for a few months now. Overall, if you are still struggling with the decision about moving back then know that there is no right or wrong decision when it comes to this matter. People will have opinions about what you should to do but my advise is that you listen to a few but follow your heart. It should be a very personal decision and suite your own circumstances and should not be influenced by the circumstances or life choices of someone else. If you have the ability to do so then it is always good to have a back-up plan so that you can go back some time in the future. But this should not be a concrete plan that you will fallback to as soon as you face the first obstacle in Sri Lanka. Even if you don't have a means of going back, if you have lived in Sri Lanka before, you will know in your heart that you can somehow make it work if you want to! If you really want to follow your heart and come back home then maintain very low expectations and you will be just fine!

16 comments:

  1. Hi Shevan,
    I came across your blog when a cousin of mine had shared this on his facebook page. It was funny reading it because other than some details, it could well have been written by someone like myself! And I feel that this blog fills a very important space for those of us from SL who are contemplating/in the process of, moving back. There are many 'Expat' blogs written by people who had moved t Sri Lanka, but none else that I could find was from anybody who was born and had grown up in SL and was (for the lack of a better word) 'Sri Lankan' in origin.
    I guess you have touched on basically everything that in my opinion, is common to all of us who are thinking of making a move back. To give a brief summary of my situation, my wife and kids have already moved back, and for the last year or so we have been vacillating between me going back also (what are you going to do? Where will you get a job?), them returning(the kids will have to learn german again! I will be lonely when you go to work because I can't speak german!) and all of us trying to migrate to another country.
    Its funny that I am reading your blog now, because this Friday, I made the decision to myself, that what I would really like to do is to return. Yes, I have also seen the high cost of living (I think we could probably live more affordably here in Switzerland, and get a house, car etc, with less of an overall financial burden), my oldest had already had his first bout of dengue, heat and traffic are equally unbearable and yeah security and safety are major concerns. So what made me decide that I want to go back? Family? Well you are really lucky to have relatives that still like to meet and mingle and chill out. Mine are seen (or not seen) running around like headless chickens taking their kids to classes, working ungodly hours and so on. Though God forbid, that they suffer the tragedy of missing an episode of 'Swapna'!
    I guess the decision to come back (made by myself, I haven't consulted the family CEO-also known as my wife- yet) boils down to one thing: I belong there. Every time, that I find myself moving away from there, it seems a part of me is missing. Going back has always been a healing process, even for a short visit. And I feel its the same for my wife as well. As my oldest I see it in the way he plays in puddles of water with his school friends. I've never seen that sense of freedom in his behaviour when he was here-That is not to say that the kids here are bad, on the contrary, in this little village where I live, most kids are quiet and obedient. But maybe he also feels more confident to be himself, over there.

    I guess we all need that spiritual base, and I know that I have it for sure over there- And I can confidently say it here, because if I say it out loud on facebook, my relatives will probably think that I am crazier than they thought! And its the same for the rest of my family as well, I feel.

    Thank you once again for putting up this blog. I really hope that you continue to write and share your views, frustrations and victories ( I am sure there will be many of each), for the rest of us to learn from. Good luck to you guys!
    Regards,
    Asanga

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  2. Interesting reading. Brings back thoughts during a year we spent in SL building our house and spending time with family whilst kids went to school there. The same pros and cons arguments were discussed though in our case we knew we were coming back. What we have learned is to keep visiting and take the best of both worlds. Our kids feel at home in SL and close to the family. We have two homes in two countries. We value our culture and family there and education and independence/ opportunities here in the UK. (Moving back was restricted with job opportunity in R's specialist field). I would advise anyone thinking of it to try a trial year to see if it's what they really want. But always follow your heart and embrace life wherever you are! If you are positive - you can make it work anywhere. All the best to you and the family, Nayanee

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    1. Great piece of advice,Thank you.We are planning to go back home after 30 years of living in Australia.

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  3. We applied for dual citizenship ,and this is our waiting time :).We want to follow our hearts and Return to our beautiful motherland
    The decision to move back to Sri Lanka from Australia after over a about 3 decades not an easy one.There are so many things to consider and decisions to be made.
    Guys do us a favour,Please give us some pros and cons about our decision.Because you guys are the experts.THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!


    Keep up the great work you are doing.You guys are TRULY AMAZING

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  4. We have thought of moving back to Sri Lanka after 43years living in the UK. Are there any agents that can help from the start with all the formalities of moving back. We do not have any family to help us and we lost around 40,0000pounds trying to buy a piece of land. We desperately want to move back but scared that we might get cheated again. Any genuine person or agent there to help us please.

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    1. What is it that you need help with? We live in Canada but we have so many connections and ties in Sri Lanka. We are also planning to return after 14 years. It seems easier for us, since we have family and friends there. Maybe I could help you with something? -Sandy

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  5. An excellent blog post. Thank you Shevan and to the rest who have shared their experiences, anxieties and trepidations. My wife and I have made the decision to move back after 14 years in the UK. We have 2 sons who are in primary school and we have found them places in a reputed international school. We had a debate about this and the advice we got was that both CIS and Moir are above average in terms of education, sports and discipline. Cost of living is definitely a factor and I think based on the research I have done so far that you will need about 500K a month to lead a comfortable life in Colombo. (I.e Excluding rent but including domestics, school fees, groceries, running a vehicle, entertainment etc.) A 3 bed unfurnished apartment in Colombo 2 and 5 (On320 and Havelock City) is approx 175K - 200k monthly rental. A lot of my friends have moved into apartments in the city (as the traffic coming into Colombo from the suburbs of Rajagiriya, Battaramulla or Nugegoda is supposed to be unbearable!)
    The rule of thumb is that it takes a year or two to adjust to life in Sri Lanka. I am hoping that both the political and economic situation in the country improves in the future but I have lived through the worst years of the civil war so I have low expectations! I think the experience of seeing a different side of life in Sri Lanka will give my children the life skills they need to survive in an extremely competitive global society. I and my wife feel that coming back will bring us closer to our extended family and we will do our best to make it work.

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    1. Your thought process and expectations around this are spot-on Sean....good luck!

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    2. Sean your comments are really spot on . And Shevan thank you for this very useful blog at the time of a big decision

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  6. Hello Shevan
    I am a dual citizen (SL/Canada) and my "visa exemption" stamp is on my expired Canadian passport. Will the airline permit me to travel without a visa to Sri Lanka. I will get a new stamp on my renewed Canadian Passport when I get to SL. Unfortunately I do not have a SL passport. Your feedback would be appreciated.

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    1. Hi, as far as I know valid visas on an expires passport are still accepted, as long as you also have a valid passport. I have done this in the past with other visas. Best is to clip the two passports together and present the visa from the old passport when requested.

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    2. Thanks for your response Shevan. One more question, is there a law to indicate that as a dual citizen I should possess BOTH passports. I seldom travel to Sri Lanka the land of my birth. Your reply is appreciated.

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    3. Hi, No you won't need both passports. You can travel with your foreign passport and your dual citizenship certificate. Alternatively if you have got SL immigration to endorse your passport to say you are a dual citizen then you won't even need the certificate to travel.

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  7. Shevan we are in the middle of the same decision you made couple of years bag that is to move to SL for good after 12 years in the UAE. Our kids 11 and 7 wont be able to join their fathers school sadly because of studying in sinhala . When we check the international schools none of them have a play ground. How can we send boys to a school without a ground. British School of colombo seems to be a big concrete jungle. Elizabeth moir dont even look like a school , CIS seems to be educating lot of kids of politicians which i dont want my kids near them. My kids got a really quality education in UAE which in return made them to good at sports as well as excelled in academics .please help us with some advise to decide on a school. We are 90 percent for the move to look after our ageing parents . Thank you

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    1. Hi, i hear you...i did the same rounds before deciding to put my kids to my old school...and I do agree on the play ground aspect, that was a key criteria for me too. Some local schools do have english medium after grade 3 or 4. Your 7 year old will be able to fit in easily to a local school...they pick the language very fast. the 11 year old may find it harder but english medium may help (although you still need to do 3-4 subjects in sinhala).

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  8. Hello im facing a similar dilemma here and i woukd be extremely thankful if i could get some advise.i have moved to canada from sri lanka a month ago.im on student visa expecting to apply for permenant residency after two or three years from now.i was very eager to come here preparing the visa myself very carefully having very high expectations about the future that i can have in canada.but when i came here what i frlt was more like should i go throuhg all these hard days to settle down in canada? Is it worth it? I had a good job in a sri lankan university and i had everything i wanted and needed back in sri lanka.i mean financially we were okay and i had a good education a good job.i left all of that and came here.and after about a month im questioning the target i had back then.now i dont have that target anymore to get settled here.but when i think about going back i feel like how could some one leave canada , a well developed country unlike sri lanka which has no sighns of becoming a developed country ever.so i am now thinking day and night what i should do.my brain knows that i should stay in canada.but then i feel like the education costs a lot and my bank acount in sri lanka will drain when i out all to my education because its hard to find all expenses with 20 hours legal work.and i have to struggke throuh it for atleast 5 years to get permannet residency which is not guaranteed.i m scared that i will lose everthing i have because of canada.im scares to take a step because of that even to see whethr his country suits me.so i was thinking without taking a risk going back to sri lanka would be better.please let me know your opinion

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